We Aussies can lay claim to at least two of the world’s best rail journeys, so WHY have I taken until now to mention them? Just call me slow on the uptake (or off the mark). Or late out of the station. Obviously, I’m talking about those railway legends, The Ghan and The Indian Pacific, and I’m tackling them separately, in alphabetical order. Got your tickets ready? Here we go....gaga over the Ghan.
Photo by Phillie Casablanca
The name sounds like something you’d shout at a cattle dog, but here's why. Those camel drivers who helped open up the Outback came from parts of Central Asia (including Afghanistan) and the Middle East (including Egypt), but we Aussies called them all Afghans, regardless of their origins. And even back in the 1840s we liked making short words shorter, hence “Ghans" and hence The Ghan – a kind of tribute to their efforts. But please don’t ask me how the biscuits got their name, because I don’t know. Sorry.
Photo by MasterMan
Now, a quick flick through The (Af)Ghan’s fact-file: the journey takes three days and two nights – 47 hours I think – with stops in Alice Springs and Katherine. It leaves Adelaide on Sundays and Wednesdays; Darwin on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It's possible to do just the Adelaide (or Darwin) to Alice Springs sector too. Accommodation is in a choice of:
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Private Carriage (for Lotto winners and billionaires)
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Platinum: super-luxurious, spacious compartments with double or twin beds (yes,
beds) by night and comfy lounge furniture by day; en suite shower; room service if you want it, and dining (all meals included in the cost) in the really
beautiful restaurant car. Plus, of course, access to the lounge bar. Free toiletry bag and magazine.
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Gold: a luxurious compartment; twin/doubles have en suite with shower; single-compartment travellers use shower/toilet facilities at end of each carriage. Doubles have upper and lower berths by night/three-seater lounge by day. Singles have a lounge chair by day. All meals are included in the cost, and taken in the superb restaurant car (see Platinum above) and lounge bar. Gold travellers receive a free toiletry bag and magazine. And, just one rung down from Platinum, larger, superior Gold compartments are also available. Instead of berths, these have a smallish double bed and a single bed.
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Red: compartments with twin berths at night, lounge chairs by day; washing facilities in the compartments, loos and showers at the end of each carriage. If you’re travelling on your own (as I usually seem to be), you might be asked to share a compartment. Reds have their own licensed diner...which is actually blue, but we won’t split hairs. It serves snack-type stuff and light meals at reasonable prices.
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Reds without beds: if (again like me) you sometimes need the cheapest option, there’s the Red Daynighter, which gets you a reclining seat in a carriage, with video entertainment, towel and soap provided. Absolutely fine when you’re young and mad; perhaps a bit tiring when you aren’t, but a big saving in money.
The Ghan stops long enough for travellers to take “whistle-stop” tours in Alice Springs and Katherine: do them if you can.
Whatever class you’re travelling in, don’t go laden with luggage: take an overnight bag on board and check your other luggage through, but remember that you won’t have access to it during the journey. Not even if you’re a Platinum Person.
HOWEVER, if you fall into billionaire/Lotto winner category and have an entire carriage to yourself, maybe you can take as much luggage you like? I don’t know. But when it's my turn to travel this way, I BAGS THE PRINCE OF WALES CARRIAGE. Here's why.
Seriously; can you think of a better way to arrive in the Alice, Adelaide or Darwin? I can't!
Photo of our fab Outback (NT) by tensaibuta