I want to urge you to go to the Aran Islands - unless, by some chance, you have an aversion to stones. The trip doesn't take long, but it feels like a significant voyage: this probably has something to do with leaving Ireland behind and ploughing off towards an empty horizon. The Arans are out there somewhere (so is the east coast of North America), but there’s not a sign of them, unless it's a nice, clear day. Ours was fair enough, but there was a heavy, summery sea haze.
Photo by tiarescott
Anyway, it was a buzz when we drew near the Arans, and even more so when we saw a ship sitting high and dry on an arm of stony land. Nobody commented on this, but we found it rather remarkable. We hoped ours wasn't going to end up in the same place, but no, we were heading for somewhere well to its right, and the village of Cill Rónáin (Kilronan). This is the biggest – well, let’s say least tiny – township on Inis Mór (or anywhere else in the Arans for that matter), so if you’re staying on the island, this is where it’ll probably be.
We hired bikes and set off in surprisingly warm – if we hadn’t been Aussies, we’d have said hot – sunshine to explore. We rode between high stone walls, past tiny stone-walled fields (high, high walls; tiny, tiny fields), past lived-in stone cottages and abandoned stone cottages, past stones, stones and still more stones, on stony little roads. It might not sound it, but this is one enchanting place.
Photo by feargal1965
We rode to the far side of the island and looked towards America. We explored prehistoric (stone-built) Dun Aengus and lay on the edge of a spectacular (and stony) precipice above the Atlantic – the “edge of Europe”, someone sagely said. We visited the stone-age Black Fort – a grim and thrilling place – and went on foot across stone-strewn land to the extraordinary, circular, prehistoric (and stone-built) Dún Eochla. We saw an Irish high cross and other 11th century monastic remains at Seven Churches. We visited the naturally formed, perfectly rectangular Worm Hole and watched the sea surge. We even, among all the stones, discovered some white sandy coves.
Ah, what a place. The people are lovely, the hospitality is out of this world, and it’s a real tonic to visit somewhere so timeless. I want you to go there. But remember what I said about stones.
You can get to Inis Mór (also called Inishmore or Mhór) and the other two islands, Inishmaan (also called Inishmaan or Inis Meadhóin) and Inisheer (Inis Thiar/Inis Oírr/ Inis Oirthir) from the fishing village of
Rossaveal (Ros a' Mhíl) in Co. Connemara near Galway. There are trips to Inisheer from Doolin in Co. Clare, which can be combined with a cruise past the world-famous Cliffs of Moher. It’s also possible to take a day-trip from Dublin to the Arans by air. Explore the islands themselves by bike, on foot or by taxi (as pictured above). Don't forget to buy some Aran knitwear, visit the Heritage Centre (a stony stroll from Kilronan) and sink a pint of Guinness at one of the charming little pubs.
Footnote: We did intend to ride our bikes to that blasted land-locked ship during our all-too-short stay, but somehow didn’t get around to it. With all those super sights to see, a ship on a sea of stones seemed deeply inconsequential. But we’ve learned since that it’s on another island (Inisheer), so we’d have had a tough time getting there. We’ve also found out that it featured on a TV series called Father Ted. If you ever saw this, you’ll know I’m not telling fibs. The ship's name is the Plassey. And here it is...
Photo by ** Maurice **