Venice is a bit of a worry. For one thing, it's in danger of inundation from the very waters that make it so fabulous. For another, its held up by ancient wooden piles driven into the mud of the lagoon – something you might not want to think about when you’re there. Its population is dwindling fast and its canals can get a little smelly and, once in a while, they can even run dry. However, the most imminent threat seems to be inundation of a different sort: tourists.
Photo by freshwater2006
Yes, it’s beginning to look as though Venice is more likely to disappear under a flood of visitors than under water. But it’s a city we all want – and should – see, so what can we do to alleviate the problem? There are a few things, and although they might seem like the proverbial drop in the ocean, at least they're a proverbial step in the right direction!
First of all, it’s best to stay away when the European summer season is in full swing. Plan a visit for late autumn or even winter, and you’ll have a better chance of seeing the sights unimpeded. The obvious drawback to this tactic is the weather, which won’t be wonderful. And bear in mind that flooding can happen in the last two months of the year. Another thing to remember is that the Venice Carnival (pictured right) is held in winter. It runs for the two weeks before Ash Wednesday, so, like Easter, its dates change annually. The 2009 festival starts on February 13. Carnival is a fantastic time to see the city, but you’ll need to book your accommodation well in advance and, sigh, be prepared for a fair number of visitors. Spring is busy – and that means any time from Easter onwards.
Photo by annia316
If you can’t avoid being in Venice at the same time as everyone else – i.e. spring, summer and early autumn – it’s still possible to help take the pressure off the primo tourist drawcards. Here are a few hints.
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Get up early. Beat the heat, the crowds and the frustration by rising with the sun and exploring the city in a magical light. Find out the opening times for “must see” buildings/galleries/museums/churches, and be there.
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Try a passeggiatta. If you can’t stand the idea of dawn, opt for a passeggiatta (evening walk) along the fondamenti (canal-side pavements). You’ll avoid at least some of the tourists that way. And don't miss the Zattere in Dorsoduro.
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Visit an island. There are some good tips on the
Telegraph.
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Get lost. Venice is a very confusing city. Very, very confusing. But it's small and if you're there with a friend, don’t be afraid to lose yourself in the network of narrow lanes, canals and squares. Just grab a map and explore. Head up the lanes (calli), over the little bridges, through small squares (campielli) and big ones (campi), take the occasional gondola, and do your best to discover the Venice of the Venetians. Outer Cannaregio is one quieter part; mostly residential. The Jewish Ghetto, which is part of the Cannaregio district, is another, though it’s more popular these days. Explore the calli around this area. If you're there on your own, getting lost isn't a great idea. Take a guided walking tour of the lesser known parts instead.
Photo by Mohan S
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Don't cross your bridges. Don’t cross the Grand Canal by bridge. You’ll understand why, when you see how many other people are trying to do the same thing, and there are only three along its length. That's one of them (the Rialto) in the photograph below. Instead, take a traghetto (commuter gondola) from one side to the other instead; it’s much more enjoyable, and it’s not expensive. The traghetti piers/routes are marked on Venice street maps.
Photo by El Gran Dee
These are just a few of the ways you can make a difference in Venice. They can be summed up in a single phrase: don’t go with the flow! But do go... there's nowhere else remotely like it.