Oooh, La Loire - France

Touristy for sure, but the Loire Valley should feature on your “must see” list if you’re visiting France. Those world-famous chateaux are all they’re cracked up to be, and more. In fact, it’s hard not to go overboard in attempts to describe them: they are the ultimate in fairy-tale castles. And I'm not alone in thinking so: between Sully-sur-Loire in the east and Chalonnes in the west, the Loire has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage area.

Photo by vkurland
 
When to go? July and August are particularly busy and the traffic can be formidable; May and June are better. Autumn (September/October) is my personal pick for visiting-time.

Short of time? You can rocket there from Paris by TGV in just over an hour, which means it’s possible to see something of this region on a day-trip. The TGV will deposit you in Tours, so for optimum use of your time, take a Tours-based sightseeing excursion. And if you hate the idea of organised, get yourself to either Chenonceau, Azay le Rideau or Amboise. They’re all within about 30km. You can read more about them below.

Time not a problem? Then stay a while. It’s not the sort of place you’ll want to leave in a hurry, and the more you see of it, the better it gets. The food, wine, chateaux, villages, towns are superb; have a quick look the Loire Valley Tourist Information and Vacation Guide and see if you don’t agree.

Best place to stay? For convenience, probably Blois or Tours, but don’t decide immediately – do your homework first. There are plenty of other places, large and small. Tours is ideal if you’re going to explore by train, with rail services to places like Amboise, Blois, Orleans, Chenonceaux (for Chenonceau), Saumur and Chinon. Accommodation ranges from troglodyte houses to rustic gites and, of course, grand chateaux.

Best chateau? Forget it; I’m not even going to try. But here, in no particular order, are a few of the most popular, plus some other places worth seeing:

• Chenonceau, in the village of Chenonceaux. One-time home of Catherine de Medici. Open daily, all year. Many people think this is the pick of the Loire chateaux. And yes, it’s gorgeous. That's it on the right.

Photo by Prasetyo, Muhammad ECTOR

• Chambord, near Blois and Orleans. Magnifique! The largest in the Loire Valley, in a park as big as Paris. Chambord – park as large as Paris. Very beautiful. Completed in 1547.
• Château de Ussé. Exquisite. Some call this the most beautiful castle in France. Straight from a fairytale – and indeed was the inspiration for “Sleeping Beauty”.
• Villandry: Very beautiful, and the Renaissance gardens are straight from a medieval Book of Hours.
• Saumur. This exquisite chateau actually does feature in a Book of Hours, for the month of September. The town is well worth a visit too; it's beautiful. Not far away are the village and chateau of Montsoreau; both lovely.
• Amboise: I’m in serious danger of running out of adjectives. Yet another stunning, must-see chateau, oozing Gothic atmosphere. That's it at the top of this page, and that's the town in the photo on the right. The chateau dates from the 1000s, but was mainly built in the 1400s. Leonardo da Vinci is buried in the chapel here; the last years of his life were spent in Amboise (visit his home, Clos Lucé).

Photo by Joe Shlabotnik

• Blois: magnificent royal chateau; associations with Joan of Arc. Amazing spiral staircase used by horsemen. The ancient town is well worth visiting too.
• Azay le Rideau, small, 16th century gem, seeming to rise straight from the Indre River. Fabulous furnishings, tapestries, paintings. Very beautiful indeed. Nearby is the village of Saché where Balzac lived.
• Montrésor: a particularly beautiful village (classified as one of the loveliest in France); medieval covered market, gorgeous walks in the nearby countryside – plus a beautiful chateau dating from 11th century. On the banks of the Indrois River, 47km from Tours.
• Chamerolles: Classic chateau, Renaissance gardens, unique perfume walk-museum. In Chilleurs-aux-Bois; nearest main centre is Orleans.

Best way to get around?

• By rental car: a car is a real advantage if you want to get serious about touring the villages, vineyards and idyllic countryside; it’s the ideal way to make the most of the place. Avoid July and August, and make sure you’re comfortable about driving on the right.
• By guided tour: there are many to choose from; you’ll see the top sights and won’t have to rely on your guidebooks for information.
• By train: the region has good, frequent rail services, so train-hopping is a very viable option. 
• By bike: ride alone or with a group, day trips or longer, catered or self-catered. Heaps on offer, and very popular. Here’s one from the Le Vieux Moulin Bicycle Touring Center.
• By horse: The Loire is legendary horse country. If you’re a rider, this really is as good as it gets. You don’t need to be Andrew Hoy; you just need to feel confident at a gallop. Here’s another gorgeous option from Hidden Trails. And here’s one for less experienced riders.
• By foot: there are numerous walking tours (self-guided and guided) available, and not just for earnest trampers; they're suitable for anyone. It’s a lovely, relaxing and rewarding way to enjoy the region; day tours and longer.
• By hot air balloon: Sublime. If you can afford it, go for it.
   

Au revoir...oh, but before I forget, that's Villandry above. Spare a thought for the person who clips the hedges...

Photo by Joe Shlabotnik