Maybe I need to get out more; I believe the weirdest things. No, I do. Years ago, someone told me Vienna was boring. I believed them, more fool me. When eventually I had to go there – note, had to – it was with great reluctance. There was just one thing I wanted to see: the legendary Spanish Riding School. It was a good call; the horses are so magnificent you could weep (I did). But it wasn’t, in the end, the highlight of my visit to Vienna. The real highlight was the extraordinary atmosphere of the city itself – the formality, the tradition, and, surprisingly, the innovation. Not to mention the eccentricity (see right).
Photo by Paul Lamere
One thing Vienna is not, and that’s boring. Nor is it easy on the feet, and I say this from experience. There’s a lot of walking involved, over lots of cobblestones. Wear comfortable shoes – but maybe not white trainers. Someone told me (they might well have been joking) that the Viennese don’t care for these. This wasn't the person who said Vienna was boring. This person is keen on art and music, and thought it was heaven on earth. He might still be there, for all I know.
So, what can you do with a few days in Vienna? There are so many attractions that I wouldn’t know where to start. The palaces, the Danube (Donau), the Spanish Riding School, the fantastic selection of galleries and museums, the splendid churches – you’ll be spoiled for choice. And really, you must see these thins. They are quite staggeringly beautiful. But here are a few less obvious attractions to add to your list:
Photo by Ivan C
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Take a look at the huge, exciting
MuseumsQuartier, (that's a small corner of it in the photo). You'll find plenty of past glories, but that's not all. This place is the living proof of life after the Hapsburgs and Strauss. It's buzzing.
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Spend time (and don't be miserly with it) in a Kaffeehäuser, sipping strong coffee and eating something sublimely rich. These wonderful places are a Viennese institution; it’s imperative that you visit at least one.
TripAdvisor can help get you started.
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Ride the No. 1 or No. 2 tram around the Ringstrasse for a great sightseeing circuit of the city. Better still, buy one of the city's excellent transport passes and get on and off as the whim takes you.
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Go on a bike tour: fab, fab. Not too strenuous - so long as you're vaguely fit, and there are lots of stops.
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Visit the wildly eccentric
Hundertwasser House (pictured below right); if you're tired of classical architecture, this will be a breath of fresh air, despite its now-advancing age (1980s). And if you've ever been to the loo in a small town in New Zealand called Kawakawa, you'll recognise the style.
Photo by akaalias
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Visit Grinzing and one of the wine taverns (Heuriger). Food, wine, music, fun. Here's a tip: look for places displaying a green pine branch or a sign that reads "Original Wiener Heuriger". The others are probably tourist traps. A bit out of town, by the Vienna Woods, but easy to reach.
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Tour the sewers. Ha! Got you! But it’s true. Ever heard of Harry Lime and
The Third Man? ’Course you have; think Orson Welles. Now you can do a Third Man Tour, and it’s quite an experience. There are other great walks available in the city too: take a look on
Vienna Walks & Talks here.
Photo by bopuc
One last word – and I’m back on the subject of cake. If you’re keen on chocolate, you really shouldn’t leave Vienna without trying Sachertorte. The real thing, served with whipped cream and a good strong coffee. But it doesn’t come cheap, and there are plenty of delicious alternatives. Just take a stroll to the nearest Konditorei or Kaffeehäuser and look around.
Yes, Vienna lets you have your cake and eat it. Make sure you get a decent slice.