A little research over lunch has uncovered a sad state of affairs. The questions were basic. “What do you know about Krakow? Would you like to go there?” The answers (in a nutshell): “Not much. Poland, Pope John Paul. Never really thought about it.” Hopeless. Well, it’s their loss. Don’t let it become yours: Krakow is gorgeous. Ask anyone who’s been there - except an inhabitant of Warsaw. They don’t much care for the place, but their opinion doesn’t count because they’re fierce rivals. A bit like asking a Melburnian if Sydney’s worth seeing.
Photo by katesheets
Krakow is in southern Poland, closer to Slovakia, the Czech Republic than it is to Warsaw. Its attractions are legion, its place-names are unpronounceable, and (thanks to someone dubbing it the “new Prague”) it’s increasingly popular with tourists. Here’s a snippet of what’s in store when you visit:
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Fourteen centuries of history: the heart of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with exceptional architecture from a range of eras. It stands on the banks of the scenic River Vistula: boat trips available during summer.
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Europe’s largest market square – the gorgeous Rynek Glowny – lined with historic buildings and bustling with life, including horses and carriages, street performers, artists and stalls. Many of the buildings are attractions in their own right, as are the ancient streets leading off it. Also in the square are the huge Cloth Hall (see below), St Adalbert’s and the 14th century St Mary’s church, with its famous bugle call – which has sounded the hours for 600 years.
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The Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) – in the heart of the market square; a truly stunning renaissance building; the world’s oldest “shopping mall”, a good place for souvenirs, icons, amber and more. Enjoy a coffee, if you can, at Noworolski’s café – it’s pure Art Nouveau. The earlier you get to the hall, the better, as it’s very popular. Upstairs is the excellent Krakow National Museum.
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The Planty and City Centre: The Planty (once the city’s moat; now a green oval; good place for walking) encircles the City Centre from the amazing Barbican. The medieval walls once stood here; one section remains. This is the most ancient part of Krakow, and almost every building has great historical significance. You’ll find museums, galleries, antique shops, churches, shops, cafes and restaurants. Take the Royal Route from the Barbican and St Florian's Gate, down ul. Floriańska to Market Square then via the very picturesque ul. Grodzka and ul. Kanonicza to the castle. Pope John Paul once lived in Kanonicza (at No. 19 and No. 21).
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Wawel Royal Castle (pictured right) – superbly sited at a bend in the Vistula; plenty to marvel at inside and out, including the ring of walls, the cathedral, huge Sigismund Bell, amazing tapestries, the Royal tombs, a glorious arcaded courtyard and the famous Dragon’s Den. Allow ample time: there’s a huge amount to see, and this is one of Poland’s most significant places.
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Kazimeirz – a separate town in medieval times, within walking distance of the castle. The old Jewish quarter dates from the late 1400s; this area was more or less abandoned after WWII but underwent a revival in the 1980s and is now thriving. Many historic buildings and ancient streets; synagogues, churches, cafes, restaurants.
Photo by Deutscher Friedensstifter
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Oskar Schindler’s Factory – across the Vistula in the Podgorze district; last I heard, it was being converted to a museum. Not too much to see prior to the coversion, but that could have changed by now.
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Lady with an Ermine: Krakow is one of only 6 places in the world to see a Leonardo painting, and it’s a beauty. It’s in the Czartoryski Museum in the old town centre.
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Wieliczka Salt Mine: 900 years old and fascinating. On the city’s south-eastern edge.
Phew. As you may have gathered, I could go on and on and on. I’ll stop right now. But have I given you food for thought? I really do hope so.
Photo by jurek d.