Some of the places we travellers end up in aren’t that great. Others are very nice. A few are gorgeous. But Kashmir – well, 
Kashmir is quite simply in a league of its own. Before I went there, I read that it's known locally as “heaven on earth”. Hmmm, I thought, we’ll see. But it is: it’s heavenly. The valleys are heavenly, the towering Himalayas are heavenly, the people are beautiful and the air is like nectar. It really is the jewel in India's crown.
Photo by Tony George
Kashmir and its capital Srinagar aren’t exactly on the beaten track, and the area has been the scene of bitter fighting between India and Pakistan. However, things are better there now, and if you’re looking for a truly romantic destination, it has to be a very strong contender. By far the easiest way to get there is to fly in from one of India's cities. We went from Delhi, flying over spectacular, rugged terrain en route.
Whether you're going there on honeymoon, happy family holiday or relaxing solo break, staying on a houseboat in Srinagar is pretty much obligatory. If you genuinely can't bear the idea, there are hotels. But you should spend at least one night on the water. You really should. It's part of the experience. What's more, you should splash out (sorry: unintentional pun) on the very best you can afford, as the more luxurious boats are astonishing.
Most of the houseboats (of all grades) are on Lake Dal, right by Srinagar. The one we ended up in was a luxury job on Lake 
Nagin, a short distance from the town and accessible only by boat. Absolute privacy, absolute bliss. For two people, it was huge: we could have accommodated four more with ease. Inside and out, it was made from ornately carved and latticed cedar; the rooms were decorated with fabulous local fabrics, the beds were huge and soft and there were breathtaking views of lake and mountains. We were there in mid-winter, with the added delight of cosy wood stoves, snowfalls and magnificent misty mornings. I can only guess how divine it must be in summer.
While you’re on your floating home, you can expect small trading boats to call from time to time, bearing goods that range from flowers to fine shawls, silver jewellery and beautiful items made from papier mâche. In our experience they weren’t a nuisance; in fact, they added to the enjoyment of being there, and, somewhat surprisingly, the vendors seemed able to take “no” for an answer.
Photo by babasteve
It’s very, very tempting to hole up on your houseboat for the duration of your stay in Srinagar, but Kashmir has such remarkable scenery that you really, in all conscience, can’t! Take a tour into the mountains or to a wildlife park. Go riding (yes, even in the snow!) or boating. Explore the markets and enjoy spicy Kashmiri food. You can even play golf, if you absolutely must. Apparently, it’s Kashmir’s next big thing according to this post on Jaunted. But most of all, relax and revel in this region’s incomparable beauty. If you don’t like it, I’ll eat my very pretty Kashmiri shawl.